For anyone staying in Kilchoan, Lunga, the largest of the Treshnish islands, is well worth a trip. Located a few miles off Mull's west coast, it's a gem of an island set in a sea of blues and greens which rival the Caribbean. There is a protected anchorage to the north of the island, with access to the shore across a boulder-strewn beach. The island then rises in a series of steps, formed of 60-million year old basalt lavas erupted from where Mull's Beinn Talaidh now stands, to the peak of Cruachan.
The island's name means 'longship island' in both Norse and Gaelic. It's a true desert island, having been abandoned by its last permanent inhabitants in 1824, when the last residents, Donald Campbell and his family, left. The small village of eight well-preserved stone-walled houses on a platform at the northeast end of the island continued to be used during the summer, when animals were brought across for summer grazing, but it was finally abandoned in 1857.
Today the island is owned by the Hebridean Trust, and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, mainly on account of its wonderful wildlife. While there may be more important species, the highlight of any visit has to be the thousand of puffins. They are an endearing bird because they show little fear of humans, so it's possible, with patience, to get very close to them.
The puffins occupy burrows abandoned by the island's rabbit population, and they tend to nest in colonies on steep banks overlooking precipitous cliffs. Although it's the colours and structures around their beaks that are the most startling features of puffins....
....they also have bright orange legs and feet.
Although stocky, and with short wings, they fly remarkably fast. The best part of watching them is when they land. They use their feet like the aerolons on aeroplane's wings, helping them to manouevre as they come in to touch down on very short 'runways'. More about puffins here.
The air around the island is full of other birds, of which the most numerous are the guillemots, which gather in large numbers on some of the steep, rocky outcrops. Another resident, shown above, is the razorbill, and the birds are harried while in flight by the dark skuas which patrol the skies.
Lunga also hosts some beautiful wildflowers. The area around the landing point is carpeted with sea campion, and we found our fist wild orchid near the summit of Cruachan, flowering far earlier than any on the mainland. But the most interesting flower was the one pictured, which may be a species of squill, perhaps spring squill.
We visited Lunga in mid-May, a time when the birds are in full breeding plumage. May is also a month which often has good weather, and we arrived in near calm conditions. We travelled to the island on Staffa Tours' MV Islander, which offers an excellent new daily service from Kilchoan Pier - picture shows the Islander moving the walkway used to transfer passengers to Lunga.
Staffa Tours' website is here.
This is very, very difficult.
ReplyDeleteAccompanying a friend, I once went to see the puffins. They are indeed quite marvellous, but I felt extraordinarily bad just being there. I got out as soon as possible. I could not escape the feeling that I was disturbing and troubling the wildlife - and for what real, valid purpose? I wondered what harm I was doing.
I feel the same about the whale watching boats that rush around making a loud noise. Yes, one sees lots of water wildlife from them, but for how long will the wildlife stay around? The closest experience I ever had a with a whale was when sitting quietly in a small boat with no power. The whale came close to investigate us.
This is just my personal view. I may be wrong. Does anyone have any proper evaluated evidence about all of this?
I understand and sympathise with your feelings, and have thought about how I can do as little as possible to disturb the wildlife I view. In general, I don't like travelling in large, noisy machines, though there are times - like going out to Lunga - when there is no other way for me to get there. So I justify what I do by saying that my interest, in, for example, puffins, helps to ensure that they are preserved.
ReplyDeleteMost animals seem to adjust to having humans around them. The puffins certainly seem to have done - in fact, I had the impression that they weren't at all bothered by our proximity, and nothing anyone did seemed to stop them going about their ordinary business.
However, I'm sure you're right when you say that the best way to see animals is by approaching them quietly - which is one reason why I like kayaking. Similarly, when we go 'on safari' in Africa, we love walking in the bush rather than bumping round in the back of a Land Rover. It also gives the animals some chance to turn the tables by eating us.