Sunday 8 January 2012

The Dun at Rubha na h-Uamha

Rubha na h-Uamha means the point of the cave, perhaps referring to the proximity of MacIain's Cave, the site of a singularly bloody massacre in 1624 - see earlier post here for location and story.

The dun lies about a kilometre northeast of the tiny village of Ockle on Ardnamurchan's spectacular north coast.  The promontory on which it stands is most easily reached by following the track which leaves Ockle and wanders east towards Gortenfern and the Singing Sands. Just over a kilometre along the track there's a cairn, below which the headland can be clearly seen. Its a steep and slippery scramble down to it, a walk which should only be attempted by those who are fit and well-prepared.

It's only as the small headland is approached that the historical feature it hides begins to become visible. The 'dun', or iron-age fort, is built of the local stone and is wonderfully camouflaged into the shore end of the promontory. One can easily understand why it was built there. It's a natural defensive position, surrounded on three sides by the sea, and tucked against a great block of rock which was integrated into its fortifications. It has beaches on either side of it, onto which ships could have been pulled up at high tide.

Even in this picture, taken from the west, the walls are still difficult to see. The built structure consists of a thick wall on three sides enclosing an area about 10m by 5m. The wall on the seaward side has almost completely collapsed, and much of the rest of it is in poor condition, making it relatively easy to climb into the fort.

This photo of the view from the east shows how the built walls are invisible from that side, the natural fortification of the cliffs, with the high lookout point, being quite sufficient to deter attack.

MacIain's Cave is a short but energetic scramble along the shore to the east of here.

The land is owned by the Cameron brothers, who have three letting cottages at Ockle, website here. A map of the walk is here.

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